Portugal Beach Life isn’t just about the beach, it’s about coming for the coastline and discovering an entire world to explore in Portugal, including snowy mountains like Serra da Estrela!
Penhas da Saúde is one of Portugal’s most enchanting mountain villages, located high in the heart of Serra da Estrela, the country’s highest mountain range. If you visit during Christmas, it really feels like the real Winter Wonderland!
Nestled at about 1,600 meters of altitude, this small alpine-style destination offers snow-filled winters, crisp mountain air, and breathtaking landscapes that feel worlds away from Portugal’s coastal life.
For anyone seeking a mix of winter charm, nature, gastronomy, and adventure, Penhas da Saúde is the perfect gateway into the magic of Serra da Estrela.
Where Serra da Estrela Is Located
Serra da Estrela sits in central Portugal, mainly within the district of Castelo Branco and stretching into Guarda.
It is part of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park, Portugal’s largest protected area, known for its dramatic cliffs, frozen lagoons, pine forests, and endless hiking trails.
The region attracts visitors year-round, but winter is when it becomes especially popular.
Temperatures and Snowfall: A True Winter Destination
Penhas da Saúde is one of the coldest inhabited places in Portugal.
Winter temperatures often range between -5°C and 5°C, and during colder nights, it can drop even lower.
Snow typically falls between December and March, although some years it arrives as early as November or lingers until April.
When snow covers the mountains, the entire village transforms into a quiet, mystical winter haven with stone chalets, white rooftops, and fog gently moving through the valleys.
How to Get There From Lisbon or Porto
Reaching Penhas da Saúde is surprisingly easy, whether you’re coming from Lisbon or Porto:
From Lisbon:
Take the A1 highway north toward Coimbra.
Exit onto the A23 heading to Castelo Branco / Covilhã.
Once you reach Covilhã, follow the signs toward Serra da Estrela, and in about 15 minutes, you will arrive at Penhas da Saúde.
From Porto:
Drive south along the A1 toward Coimbra.
Exit onto the A25, then transition onto the A23.
Follow the directions to Covilhã and continue up the mountain to Penhas da Saúde.
The drive from Lisbon takes around 3 hours, and from Porto about 2.5 hours. Both routes offer beautiful scenery, especially the final climb through the mountain roads.
Where to Stay in Penhas da Saúde
Penhas da Saúde offers several wonderful stays for mountain lovers:
Luna Hotel Serra da Estrela
The highlight of accommodations is the Luna Hotel, known for being the highest hotel in Portugal.
With panoramic views, cozy rooms, a warm lounge area, and comforting mountain-style architecture, the hotel gives you the full winter-escape feeling.
It’s perfect for travelers who want comfort and easy access to snow activities.
Check here our stay at Luna Hotel:
Pousada da Serra da Estrela
A luxurious and historic option, Pousada da Serra da Estrela sits slightly lower on the mountain but still close to Penhas da Saúde.
Designed by the famous Portuguese architect Eduardo Souto de Moura, the Pousada blends modern comfort with mountain soul.
It’s ideal for those who love a relaxing spa atmosphere and spacious surroundings.
Chalets and Mountain Cabins
All around Penhas da Saúde, you’ll find charming wooden chalets and stone cabins, some deeply embedded in the pine forest.
These cozy mountain houses are perfect for families or couples seeking privacy, a fireplace, and that authentic mountain-village feel.
They are especially popular during snowy weekends.
Where to Eat: Traditional Mountain Cuisine
The Serra da Estrela region is known for intense flavors, hearty dishes, and fresh mountain produce.
Penhas da Saúde and Covilhã have several excellent restaurants where you can taste traditional Portuguese cuisine.
DaSerra
Located right in Penhas da Saúde just across Luna Hotel, DaSerra is a mountain chalet-style restaurant and is a favorite among locals and visitors.
The ambiance is rustic and cozy, interior dominated by wood, with a fireplace and a wood‑fired oven, creating a warm, “in the mountains” vibe. There’s also an exterior seating/space.
Expect traditional & regional dishes: e.g. goat (cabritinho) baked in the oven, wild boar (javali) with chestnuts, beans stew (feijocas: a regional Manteigas‑style beans dish).
The restaurant seems to combine tradition and some creativity: according to a feature about this place (when referred also as “Puro Restaurante / daSERRA”), dishes include reinterpretations using local products, e.g. “portobello stuffed with presunto and Serra cheese,” wild boar with regional touches, octopus with sweet potato purée.
For dessert: there are regional‑style sweet options built with local ingredients (e.g. mil‑folhas with “leite‑creme,” pumpkin dessert with rice‑milk ice cream, and other desserts inspired by local traditions, per one article about Puro/daSERRA.
So if you go, expect a mix of rustic, hearty mountain‑style fare, meat, game, regional cheeses and ingredients, fish (common around Serra), and local‑flavor desserts
This restaurant is perfect after a cold day outdoors.
Check here our visit to DaSerra Restaurant:
Medieval Restaurant
Restaurante Medieval is the “in‑house” restaurant of Luna Hotel Serra da Estrela open to hotel guests and the general public, so you don’t need to be staying at the hotel to visit.
The vibe is very rustic, warm and cozy: think stone walls, wooden ceilings/beams, large solid‑wood tables, fireplaces or a wood‑oven. The setting evokes a “mountain‑lodge / traditional‑serra / old‑time” charm.
Especially in colder seasons (winter / snow), it seems ideal: the warmth of the fireplace + the stone/wood ambience + mountain landscape outside make it a “refúgio acolhedor”, a comforting refuge after a day in the cold or in the snow.
The cuisine is rooted in regional / “serrana” / mountain and traditional Portuguese / Portuguese‑regional, in a buffet-style where you serve yourself.
Expect hearty, mountain‑style mains. For example: roasted lamb (or “borrego serrano”), regional meats, sometimes fish or cod dishes, and other rustic “comfort” fare, made to suit the climate and local ingredients.
Perfect for anyone wanting to experience local/regional Portuguese/“serrana” cooking, comfort food, regional cheeses/enchidos/roasts, simple but hearty fare.
Primor
Primor Serra is a restaurant located in Penhas da Saúde just across the road from Luna Hotel.
It serves Portuguese / regional cuisine, with a focus on hearty, “serrana” (mountain‑region) dishes, often comforting, generous meals that fit well with the mountain‑climate and local produce.
The vibe is described by many diners as “cozy, rustic and welcoming,” with a friendly, family‑style environment.
Regional specialties: things like cabrito assado (roast kid/goat), lamb chops or roasts, “secretos de porco preto,” and other meat‑heavy dishes typical of mountain cuisine.
Generous portions: Several reviews note that portions are ample, often more than enough for two, which appeals especially after hiking or spending the day outside.
Primor Serra also features a shop on-site where visitors can buy snow gear, souvenirs, and local products, making it convenient for tourists to pick up gifts or essentials during their mountain visit.
Varanda da Estrela
Varanda da Estrela is a rustic‑style restaurant with panoramic views, just across the Penhas da Saúde natural pools.
The interior is cosy and traditional: stone + wood, with décor referencing Serra da Estrela’s rural and pastoral heritage, akin to a mountain cabin/“refúgio serrano.
Varanda da Estrela’s menu is rich in traditional and hearty dishes, ideal for mountain weather and after a day of hiking or snow‑related activities: regional cheese and charcuterie boards, “enchidos serranos”, hearty soups.
Here you can try local specialties such as javali (wild boar), a regional favorite, stews and heavier dishes such as “feijocas serranas” (regional beans), “arroz de zimbro” (juniper-flavored rice/stew with meats and mushrooms), very typical of mountain regional gastronomy.
Go with friends, family, or a group, portions and dishes lean hearty, good for sharing and satisfying appetites.
What to Do in Penhas da Saúde
Ice Arena: The Winter Ice Rink
Between November and April, Penhas da Saúde comes alive with the Ice Arena, one of Portugal’s most charming seasonal ice rinks.
Surrounded by mountain views, it’s perfect for children and adults, beginners or experienced skaters. The festive ambiance makes it a must-visit winter activity.
Visit Torre, the Highest Point in Portugal
From Penhas da Saúde, you are only 12 minutes away from Torre, the highest peak in mainland Portugal at 2000 meters.
Here is also where the Serra da Estrela Ski Resort is located, with ski slopes, snowboarding, sledding, and a true winter sports atmosphere.
At Torre, you will also find the popular Restaurant A Torre, where you can enjoy traditional mountain dishes in the highest restaurant in the country, as well as a shop with snow gear and souvenirs.
Lagoa do Viriato
On the road from Penhas da Saúde to Torre, make sure to stop at Lagoa do Viriato, a stunning mountain lagoon surrounded by quiet nature and dramatic winter scenery.
It’s especially magical when frozen or covered in snow.
Varanda dos Carqueijais Viewpoint
As you drive up from Covilhã, stop at the Varanda dos Carqueijais, one of the best viewpoints in Serra da Estrela.
From here, you can see an incredible panorama of Covilhã, the Cova da Beira valley, and the surrounding mountains.
Penhas da Saúde Natural Pool
Just across the restaurant Varanda da Estrela is a charming natural mountain pool that becomes a refreshing escape during the warmer months.
Surrounded by granite rocks, crisp alpine air, and sweeping views of Serra da Estrela, the pool offers a peaceful place to unwind after hikes or scenic drives.
Its clear, chilly waters are fed by the pure mountain springs of the region, giving it that invigorating “high-altitude” feel.
It’s a simple but beautiful spot that captures the raw, tranquil nature of Penhas da Saúde
What to Explore Further in Serra da Estrela
Serra da Estrela offers unforgettable experiences beyond Penhas da Saúde:
Covão dos Conchos
A stunning artificial waterfall that looks like a natural vortex in the middle of the lake.
The hike to Covão dos Conchos is one of the most iconic adventures in Serra da Estrela.
Cascata (Waterfall) do Poço da Broca
This waterfall with a natural pool at its base is located ear the village of Loriga, in the Serra da Estrela mountains. It’s in a forested, mountainous area, surrounded by trees, rocks, and natural pools.
The area is often described as magical because of the combination of dense forest, flowing water, granite rocks, and lush greenery.
Light filtering through the trees, the sound of flowing water, and moss-covered rocks make it feel almost like a hidden fairytale place.
There’s a short trail from the nearby road or parking area leading to the waterfall. The path goes through forest and is usually easy to moderate in difficulty. Hiking shoes recommended.
Covão da Ametade
Covão da Ametade is a glacial‑valley “covão” at altitude, surrounded by forested slopes and trees, where the river Rio Zêzere begins its course.
It combines water + forest + mountain, many people consider it one of the most beautiful and peaceful spots in Serra da Estrela.
It’s often described as a place to relax, connect with nature, enjoy the silence of the woods, especially appealing beyond the typical tourist hotspots.
Bread Museum in Seia
A cultural landmark where you can learn about Portuguese bread-making traditions, taste local specialties, and buy regional products.
Try the Serra da Estrela Cheese, “Enchidos”, Honey and Nut Jams!
No visit is complete without trying or buying the famous Queijo da Serra, a soft, creamy cheese made from local sheep milk.
The mountain is also known for excellent honey, produced from wildflowers and juniper plants.
You also need to try the typical “enchidos”: sausages, blood sausages, smoked sausages, cured pork products (charcutaria), etc. In Serra da Estrela, these meats are part of a long tradition: cold‑smoking, slow drying, natural curing, and use of regional ingredients.
And of course also try the nut jams: these jams are typically made with seasonal fruits grown in the Serra da Estrela region, such as cherries, figs, plums, apples, pears, and quinces.
The nuts added are often walnuts or hazelnuts, which grow abundantly in the mountain’s valleys and orchards. Sometimes almonds are used too.
The combination of fruit + nuts gives the jam a rich texture: soft and sweet from the fruit, slightly crunchy and nutty from the nuts.
There are shops where you can buy all these products, like restaurant Primor at Penhas da Saúde, the shop at Torre, and other places in Seia, Manteigas or in Covilhã.
Penhas da Saúde is a magical place filled with winter beauty, mountain flavors, and peaceful nature.
Whether you come for the snow, the views, the gastronomy, or the quiet charm of a mountain village, this corner of Serra da Estrela promises an unforgettable escape.
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